PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAOnce aware of the scrumptious Cantonese cuisine that pours from the kitchen at New Dynasty you will want to dine here, and very often at that. Its street-front presence will not be what lures you in with the windows which appear to be frosted, unwashed or both. This might caution you to keep driving past but that would be a pity, as you would then bypass the flavoursome food that is prepared inside. Paper lanterns, plastic flowers and some lost Christmas tinsel complete the look in the dining room. The decor may be kitsch but the food definitely has taste.
Proprietor Irene Fok and her chef father present Cantonese fare rarely enjoyed outside of Chinatown. The menu itself comes as a surprise, with vegetarian offerings that further impress. The steamed mushrooms wrapped in bean curd skin with vegetables is a standout dish. The flavours and presentation of this might inspire you to turn vego forever but the rest of the menu’s meatier offerings would make this hard. Salt and pepper soft shell-crab competes against crocodile in a ginger and shallot sauce. The hotpot of eggplant with minced chicken and salted fish is hard to ignore. Pre-order the baby abalone for a special steamed treat or a whole duck. When it comes to sweets, the black sesame ice-cream will put a smile on your face.
Roz Taylor, April 2008
