PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAThe lengthy menu at Milano Cucina is built to please at all times of the day. Chef, Enzo Verdino, ensures a satisfying meal whether you are seated at 6.30am or 9.30pm. His previous Adelaide ventures include the city’s first Fasta Pasta and stalwart of North Adelaide, Cafe Paesano. Prior to this, the lucky Italians in Enzo’s home country enjoyed his cooking at high end nosheries. Thankfully, Milano Cucina’s menu pays homage to traditional Italian dishes in conjunction with modern favourites. The specials of the day extract the essence of Enzo’s cooking heritage. Venetian style borlotti bean soup tempts as does the fagottini di pollo in brodo – Italy’s version of chicken soup. The restorative clear broth is heartened with plump pasta parcels of chook.
Cheese and truffle aficionados often walk hand in hand so the gnocchi dish will bring them running. Home-made pasta luxuriates with four cheeses, baby spinach, pine nuts and truffle oil. Ever wondered what came first, the duck or the egg? They arrive in perfect unison in pappardelle al sugo d’antra. Large egg enriched ribbons are an appropriate pasta vehicle for duck ragu with champignon mushrooms. The taglierini pasta dish has nips of blue swimmer crab and chilli bound in a cream sauce. When your lips stop smacking, have a read of the meat and seafood listings. The menu impresses with green gorgonzola risotto and beer-glazed pork medallions with sultanas, pine nuts, shallots, brussel sprouts and pureed potato. Wonderful food such as this is far worthier of attention than wide-screen televisions. The super-sized one in Milano Cucina hits you between the meatballs. You may choose to ignore it in an otherwise tasteful decor.
Roz Taylor, July 2008
