PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIASitting independently between the city and retail end of its King William Road address, Mantra is housed within a renovated bungalow. Ten-foot ceilings and huge, sunshine-friendly windows open up a room that invites a relaxed, uninhibited experience. Modern chairs are placed at old wooden tables on timber floorboards; leather lounges form a corner setting. The rustic coffee table covered in magazines will keep you company if waiting for a table, which can sometimes occur as Mantra is seen with its belly full of diners even on Adelaide’s chilliest evenings. A wine wall stands in the hallway, stocked with drops not found in your local plonk shop. While this will tickle your wine snob bone, you need not produce a platinum card just to read the labels. Nearly 20 are available by the glass, the majority under $10.
The food also contributes to Mantra’s unique personality – it does not play by the rules and diners are encouraged to have fun with it. Sarah Swain does not proclaim to be a rock star chef, although she used to cook for the likes of Paul McCartney and the Pet Shop Boys in London. The menu is designed for sharing and it respects local, seasonal produce. Choose from a dozen tapas to start; baked Coffin Bay oysters, white anchovy stuffed olives and garlic prawns are just some of the terrific choices. Entrees range from a carnivorous steak tartare to luxurious steamed asparagus with warm egg yolk and basil oil dressing. Just six mains manage to make choosing hard. Pink-roasted lamb rack, pan-seared duck breast, pan-fried snapper and pork-loin mignon marinated in maple all tempt. Despite dishes such as these, Mantra does not promote itself as fine-dining. Owners Ben Warren and Karl Kirsten offer innovative food in a hospitable atmosphere – and they deliver with style.
Roz Taylor