Grace, The Establishment

LOCATION
In the heart of Norwood Parade, just five minutes from the city.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Coffin Bay oysters served with pipettes of oils and acids, a mini Wagyu beef cheese burger, and tapioca fish fingers with aerated tartar sauce - novel sounding yes, and intriguing enough to invite an exploratory visit. If you have an open mind or are not the type to guffaw at whiffs of whimsy, then get yourself to Grace, the Establishment. The fact that it is owned by accomplished Adelaide restaurateurs Matthew and Olivia Trim (The Manse, Sparrow) is reason enough.

In Norwood’s arterial eat-street, the Trims have wisely introduced sophisticated wining and dining with difference amidst the stalwart Italian and Asian eateries. Once home to Manny’s Fish Café, its insides are now funked up and finessed. All its Trimmings typify the new owners in residence. Enters the pared back, white-walled space where provincial meets industrial. Bench and stool seating continues into a long, dark, hallway-esque bar. Here you are offered opportunity to tap into some vino - literally. The house wine of this Establishment comes forth through wall-mounted taps. While quality is a given, some may find it being sold by the litre (shy of $50), a bit unpalatable.

Far more tasteful are the flavours on the menu. Small plates bring king fish sashimi with ginger and shallot dressing and sesame mayonnaise; Hervey Bay scallops, with a sopressa dressing and almond cream; and a betel leaf san choy bow with pork belly, celery and white soy dressing. Bigger plates brandish house-made Muscovy dusk sausage with black garlic sauce, baby turnips and swedes. Sides of mushy peas with a soft egg or mac and cheese bring big smiles. Things get serious with specialist meat and fish sections, then comfort can be found in cinnamon doughnuts with espresso custard.

Roz Taylor