Citi Zen

LOCATION
Near the intersection of King William Street and South Terrace.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
'Thank you, Amy!' is a call you hear often, as regulars leave Citi Zen. The charming lady in question has been managing this city restaurant since its inception eight years ago. She is nearly part of the furniture - found amongst the comfy, upholstered, solid wood chairs and well-trodden, crimson carpet. Kitsch fruit prints and potted palms abound the Chinese restaurant. Polite staff are kitted out in traditional embroidered jackets. The restaurant has aged comfortably, especially owner Sherman Hu's range of vintage Penfolds Grange! Ever-present is gracious host Amy, looking after business munchers, families with bubbling babies, and foodies out for yum cha euphoria.

Weekends are best for yum cha. This is when the trolleys get wheeled out for those who delight in pointing, picking and pawing over steaming baskets packed with dumplings, dim sum, rice rolls, buns and balls - close to 100 varieties. Barbecue pork pies, fried stuffed bean curd, egg custard tarts and water chestnut cakes beckon, while snow-white chicken feet intrigue curious palates.

Don't ignore the a la carte menu. Dishes are presented on corny, ornate plates that you will either love or hate. Importantly, they serve up good food. Seafood dishes feature live lobster and barramundi - see them swimming in their temporary home in the dining room while a daggy fishpond at the entrance houses their luckier goldfish allies. Salted egg-yolk jumbo prawns have a rich coating but beware - they come with unshelled. Highlights are salt and pepper Moreton Bay bug tails, blue swimmer crab and steamed oysters with juices that burst into your mouth.

An elegant private dining room on the side is perfect for the Emperor's Banquet. Its throne-like chairs certainly make you feel like royalty. Feast on the likes of abalone and oyster sauce and gai lan with stuffed black mushrooms while you summon something from the drinks trolley. 'Thank you, Amy!'

Roz Taylor