LOCATIONMidway along the restaurant precinct of Hutt Street.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAIt is a brave move to open a restaurant on a major culinary strip. When plenty of eateries are jostling against each other for diners’ attention, yours needs to have something that stands out from the crowd. A snazzy fit-out furthers the chances of luring first-time diners through the door. Barendoe certainly has that. Dark timber panelling around the bar and chocolate brown decor give a rich feel. The rear wall is a 70s-style sunset-over-beach backdrop, complete with palm tree. At first it stands out among hip snakeskin upholstered banquettes, glam chandeliers and contemporary seating. Then, as you settle in, it does too with a warmth that fills the room. Ultimately, it is the food that draws diners back to regularly patronise a restaurant and Barendoe’s dishes welcome with home-style flavours.
Chef Phillipo has built a sizeable menu of breads, risotto, pasta, pizza, meat and seafood. Salads, soup and sides make for a well-rounded meal. Anchovies, rock salt and oregano on a pizza base stand out as something stylishly savoury to have on hand. The rocket, parmesan, orange and walnut salad should also make fine company for most dishes. Pastas include a penne partnered with homemade spicy Italian pork sausage, roast capsicum and olives finished with Napolitana sauce; however, it’s hard to go past the fresh blue swimmer crab meat linguini in a reduced rosette sauce. Veal dishes offer a stunner of medallions in a Pinot Grigio sauce tossed with calamari, prawns and avocado served on lemon and garlic-infused spinach. Crepes, tiramisu and zabligione all make appearances on the specials board providing more reasons for you to make your way to Barendoe.
Roz Taylor