Seasalt at Armstrongs

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Prominent Brisbane chef Russel Armstrong has settled into this cosy, if slightly hidden, eatery behind the arched doorways of the boutique Incholm Hotel. Walk through the carpeted corridor and upon entering the restaurant, things immediately appear brighter. The airy room has off-white walls, with purple and orange corners, and a gallery of contemporary paintings by local artist Di West. The tiled floors give way to a raised, polished, wood platform, where white-clothed tables are doubly topped with paper sheets, in case things get messy. Most tables come complete with your own personal dining companion, a fighting fish in a small rectangular tank, who’s probably just grateful he’s not on the seafood-dominated menu.

Armstrong has shifted to a simpler style of cooking for his eponymous restaurant, although his classical European training is evident in subtle flourishes and beautiful presentation. Starters include Queensland crab meat frittata with lamb mache and a chervil and white asparagus salad, or gravlax of salmon with green bean, artichoke, and micro-herb salad with black sambuca dressing. Mains range from roasted monk fish wrapped in pancetta with smoked tomato and caponata salsa, to meat dishes including Japanese spiced fillet of beef with calamari fritti and Szechwan lime mayonnaise.