LOCATIONJust around the corner from Wilston Village.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAAustralia, it is widely acknowledged, is waking up to food. The somewhat stagnant Australian dining ethic has in recent years been reinvigorated by food-conscious, adventurous diners. Citron Modern Asian is the sort of fresh, imaginative venture leading the charge.
The food cooked here is original and adventurous. The secrets behind this innovative approach? Philosophies dating back centuries. Chef Mark Newman, who has trained with Thai cookery “guru” David Thomson, uses age-old Thai ideas to underpin his creations. Balance is the thing; the elements of heat, sweet, sour and salt must be maintained in harmonious proportion. And with this guiding philosophy behind them, the dishes served up do not disappoint. The twice-cooked crispy chicken with caramel sauce is stickily sweet, yet the sugary glaze is shot through with a mischievous flame of chilli heat and firtatious ginger.
“Fresh” is the concept behind the restaurant. Fresh ideas; fresh food. Unlike other traditional cuisines that are heavily reliant on butter and oil for richness, Thai and East Asian techniques are suited to the heavy Queensland sun. All Citron’s salads are lime-juice based, making them light and refreshing. The sand crab with betel leaves, chilli, coconut, coriander and lime juice embodies this perfectly. It is zesty, it is interesting, and it can be eaten on a hot day without regret. All curry pastes are hand-ground on the premises, and fresh herbs are hand-picked every day. There is no room for shortcuts; great artifice goes into the creation of every dish.
Citron is high-quality but low-pretension. Respectful of tradition, yet alive to modernity. It is the sort of restaurant which knowledgeable Australian diners are now embracing, and with good reason. Citron will awaken tastes you had previously been unaware of, and like that acidic, zesty bite, it is a refreshing experience.
Aran Ward Sell