Il Lido

LOCATION
In the new Darwin Waterfront development, opposite the wave pool and overlooking the lagoon.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Jimmy Shu, the brains behind Darwin’s Hanuman restaurant, has certainly created a beautiful space for his new Italian venture, il Lido. The large indoor dining room has floor-to-ceiling windows to capitalise on the prime views from its position on Wharf One as it hovers over the water. A funky bar with plenty of outdoor seating and fans also makes the most of Darwin’s climate and the calming surroundings.

Our dining experience at il Lido was mostly positive, however the few discordant notes clanged loudly, so to speak, in the beautiful setting. The arancini were gluggy and greasy, and the Pig Lover’s Pizza could have lightened up on the Dominos-esque overload of salty, oily toppings, but every other dish had creative edge and fresh flavour. The subtle flavours of the Pizza Bianca presenting Italian cheeses, mushrooms, rosemary, walnuts and dates was a well-balanced and delicate twist on the Roman favourite. A magnificent steak, perfectly seasoned and beautifully presented with harmonising sides of red onions in sticky balsamic glaze, yummy roast potatoes and gorgonzola butter was the best meal of the night.

The wine list showcased a good range of Aussie and imported reds, although not many are available by the glass if you like to mix and match. Our waiter also looked baffled when asked for a recommendation – perhaps he is more of a beer drinker. The desserts were divine - the vanilla bean panna cotta was draped in charred mango with caramel cristoli a crunch accompaniment, while three big, icy scoops of gelati was still a generous serving to share between three.

The overall feeling of il Lido is conservatively chic, with some very talented chefs in the kitchen. Over time, it is sure to mature into a Darwin institution, where Italian food has traditionally struggled to find a foothold.

Heather Bryce