Toko Surry Hills

LOCATION
On Crown Street, between Foveaux and Devonshire. Only a seven minute walk from Central Station.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
From the sleek fit-out to the stylish clientele, this Surry Hills dining hotspot oozes cool. The designer izakaya offers up a melange of small dishes to share, complemented by a sterling sake list. Toko Restaurant and Bar sprouted on the Crown Street strip in 2007 following the success of the Paddington sushi bar and takeaway of the same name. This is a more upmarket incarnation of its older sister, incorporating a robata grill and cocktail lounge, and encouraging a more leisurely dining experience. Taking residence in the shell of a building dating back to the early 1900s, its interior is a stark contrast, featuring sleek wood panelling and dim lighting. A few communal tables provide ample elbow room for sharing, while both the sushi bar and robata grill offer spots to perch and watch the chefs in action.

Order up a collection of dishes to share, starting with the watari-gari kara-age – crispy soft shell crab with a dash of wasabi mayo, and ko-tori hoba oven-yaki – miso-marinated baby chicken, oven-baked on hoba leaves. Salads and tempura dishes should not be forgotten, nor should the ever-popular yakitori from the grill. Chef’s selection plates of nigiri sushi and sashimi make the choice easy, but don’t miss the left-of-field ko hituji yasai suzuke zoe – lamb cutlets marinated in hatcho miso. The dessert list is an interesting collaboration of East and West, with dishes such as sweet red bean gyoza served with warm coconut cream, and warm chocolate fondant with vanilla-miso ice-cream. With more than 30 types of sake on the list, sup on a few tots in the restaurant or retire to the cocktail lounge when you can linger under the glow of the dazzling light feature. Keep in mind that bookings are taken for lunch only; swing by early to beat the crowds for dinner.

Lauren Barker