PROFILED BY DEGROOTSIt will take you a few minutes to walk down the pier to the restaurant at the end. As you move along you start to forget the hustle and pace of the city behind. The sense of a large body of water nearby quietens you, and you may even slow down to cast an eye over the Sydney Theatre posters as you pass. Reach the end of the pier, and the narrow corridor opens up into a breathtaking expanse. High ceilings and uninterrupted windows bring the outside in: seemingly endless water and sky, with the Harbour Bridge looming pensively to one side. You feel as though you are standing at the edge of the pier with nothing around, just you and 180 degrees of calm blue space.
The Wharf has made the most of its location, with large outdoor decks and stunning views from almost every table. Commendably it does not rely on this asset, but creates a dining experience that alone justifies patronage. Testament to this is the chef’s hat it has held since 2000. The modern Australian menu delicately balances flavour and aesthetic, articulating each season. The wine list is largely Australian, with a separate reserve wine list by Jon Osbeiston that has been custom assembled to compliment the Wharf menu. This is a definitive Sydney dining experience.
Sarah Theeboom, October 2006