LOCATIONDown the stairs of 16 Argyle Street, five minutes’ walk from Circular Quay Station.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAPerhaps it is the age-old sandstone and cobblestone paths that make The Rocks the perfect place for French cooking to be pared back to its brilliant basics. At the new addition to the historic area, the Cut Bar & Grill returns to the cuisine’s elegant bistro-style steaks defined by their natural flavours. Each is accentuated only by the hardwood and charcoal grill, and a Montague steakhouse broiler that harnesses the meat’s character through intense heat. James Privett is known for his strong background in French bistro fare and is responsible for the grill-focused menu, including sustainable seafood features and sides that could easily stand on their own.
A glamorous edge has been added to the Cut’s rustic aesthetic, based on a bold palette of marble table tops, magenta curtains and turquoise banquettes. Cow hide-lined lounges and feather-embellished lampshades create flirtation between masculine and feminine styles, whilst a huge candelabra and exposed bricks whisper a subtle medieval touch. Dry-aged meats from the glassed-in charcuterie are showcased on wooden platters, while small plates are another option for those coming first and foremost for the wine.
Delicate grilled quail breast is served beside a bone marrow dumpling with a knob of sage butter melting around them, whilst subtle, seared white scallops contrast with robust veal sweetbreads. The size of the 500g 150-day grain fed Riverine T-bone takes the stage at the table and, whilst we gawk at its glistening mass, the waitress smiles, “Everyone has the same reaction”. The medium-rare meat is framed in a caramelised crust formed in that magical 650°C broiler, the flesh instilled with earthy flavour from the beechwood. Crisp skin of seared yellowfin tuna clings to its delicate white flesh presented on a bright bed of carrot purée and a moat of cider beurre blanc. Glossy chunks of Jerusalem artichoke lie amongst the rubble of mature goat’s cheese, crunchy hazlenuts and bright radicchio, while soft cubes of eggplant and blooming celery hearts speckled with chickpeas soak up herb and mustard vinaigrette. Feminine florals finish the meal with rose petal and pistachio-crusted meringue balanced atop a curl of passionfruit curd. Accompanying pearls of rose-pink Campari are like edible raindrops that melt the accompanying goat’s cheese snow.
The Cut Bar & Grill redefines the steakhouse experience with sophisticated dishes that harness the technique of classic French bistro cuisine.
Edwina Storie
FUNCTIONSThe Cut Bar & Grill can easily accommodate small functions in the bar section, which can seat 26 guests at the tables and host an extra 10 standing. The restaurant’s dining area can host up to 100 guests seated, and a dedicated private dining area can also host guests for more intimate events.