PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAIf chefs were in the habit of wearing feathers in their toques, Matt Kemp would be the recipient of yet another plume. Following on from the success of his hatted Randwick establishment, Restaurant Balzac, Kemp and partner Lela Radojkovic have alleviated the need for north shore foodies to fish around in their pockets for the $3 bridge toll thanks to the new addition to their budding culinary empire, The Burlington. Nestled on Burlington Street in Crows Nest, Kemp and Radojkovic have created a spectacularly affordable destination for drinking and dining that will have many Sydney-siders from further a field wishing it was their local too.
Two distinct dining rooms occupy the long restaurant, where flexibility is the order of the day. The menu is a roll call of the modern European bistro flavours that Kemp excels at, prepared under the watchful eye of Balzac graduate and head chef, Chad Muir. Almost every dish is available in both an entree and main size, giving diners the freedom to set the pace of their Burlington experience. Design your own degustation by choosing a selection of entree sized dishes or settle in to tackle the rib eye of dry aged Aberdeen Angus beef with hand cut chips and bearnaise sauce. Offal gets given a glam makeover in the form of grilled calves liver with slow-roasted red onion while a terrine of smoked ham hock and pork cheek with ear beignets is a delicious little piggy indeed. The wine list echoes the flexibility of the menu, with each stellar drop available by the glass, carafe and bottle.
Amy Looker, June 2008