Sumalee Thai @ The Bank Hotel

LOCATION
Newtown, ten minutes south from the CBD.

PROFILES BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
During the height of the grunge era, one felt funny about going to Newtown wearing anything nicer than dirty jeans and a band t-shirt. In a post-grunge Inner West, the Bank Hotel was like the last bastion of defence against the glamming up of Sydney’s pub scene. Its multi-million dollar makeover late last year was like the fall of Rome, but as they say: if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em. The makeover has taken the building back to its art deco roots and managed to pull off a feeling of casual luxury with stunningly appointed rooms divided into five separate areas, including the Public Bar, Terrace Bar, Garden Bar, Velvet Room and Sumalee Thai Restaurant.

Sumalee Thai is almost unrecognisable in its fancy new garden setting, with dainty fairy lights, smooth wooden tables and gentle lighting, and the food is better than ever. Sample Chris Yarnprasitkul’s creations such as tom sab (hot and spicy pork rib hot pot with tamarind and Thai herbs), or deep-fried whole barramundi topped with green mango salad. Bright red and orange wet weather awnings, which fold out to cover the voluminous alfresco seating area, resemble a circus big top and accentuate the bright atmosphere. And while the surface may have changed, some things never do, and you can still be assured of queuing for a table on Friday and Saturday nights.

Shelley Hepworth