On hip Glebe Point Road. PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Glebe residents were most pleased when this quietly legendary Newtown restaurant picked up and re-settled on Glebe Point Road. Much like what Atelier did in Newtown, here it offers refined cuisine and informed service as alternative to the jumble of pubs and takeaways step inside and they seem a world away. Still, the atmosphere remains warm and unpretentious and the prices relatively forgiving. Housed in a lovely old brick cottage fronted by neat hedges, the interior is pleasantly painted in rust-red and cream, with timber floors, fireplaces, elegant curved wood and steel chairs and chocolate-brown banquettes.
English chef Darren Templeman handles quality ingredients with fine-tuned European sensibility. Entrees include an assiette of Thirlmere duck featuring four delicate little compositions, beautifully arranged on a rectangular platter. Almost as spectacular are the marinated yabby tails, served with beetroot and horseradish jelly, yoghurt and truffle sorbet. Among the mains are interesting and superbly crafted dishes like roasted white rabbit with shiitake and eschalot, served with braised snails and parsnip puree. Perfectly cooked South Australian jewfish is presented with black tiger prawns, asparagus and cos lettuce. Desserts include a Valrhona and cherry tartlette with crème fraiche, bittersweet and delicious. The food here rivals anything in the top city restaurants.