Restaurant Arras

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
British food has shed its inhibitions. No longer the stodgy, heavy dishes of our misconceptions, it is now a little lighter, more mischievous and more playful – on the Restaurant Arras plates, at least. This sideways step is an attempt by head chef and owner Adam Humphrey to push the boundaries and please the palates of his guests, as he fuses memories of his childhood with traditional British recipes to create an innovative collection of ever-changing dishes. A niche offering in the Sydney dining scene, this modern take on European fare lets the chefs amuse themselves rattling the pans in the kitchen. And this creativity has not gone unnoticed; Restaurant Arras was recently awarded One Chef’s Hat in the 2009 Good Food Guide.

Located on the ground floor of the old Parburys Bond Store in Walsh Bay, the restaurant’s rich history is echoed in its exposed brick and moody atmosphere. Gauzy curtains brush against dark carpet; wooden tables dressed in white are dotted with fresh flowers. Adam admits he’s deeply in love with his restaurant – and it certainly shows; each dish on the menu brings a personal story and relevance. A dessert rich in licorice is reference to his father’s constant supply of Licorice Allsorts when Adam was a child; the petit fours trigger memories of childhood sweets. Adam and partner Lovaine experiment with the menu, deconstructing traditional meals and rebuilding them in their own unique way. The current a la carte offering includes dishes such as smoked salmon Scotch egg with caper soldiers, soon to be joined by Blue Eye poached in beer, while the specials menu is a medium to test new ideas on curious diners. Restaurant Arras places equal emphasis on quality wine, with more than 200 bottles available to accompany a selection from the cheese trolley.

Lauren Barker