Qmin

LOCATION
At the back of an office tower, a short walk from St Leonards station.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS
Colourful drapes, puppets and elaborate paintings – that is what most people associate with an Indian restaurant. So it is pleasantly surprising when you stroll into Qmin in St. Leonards that the cuisine is striking enough so that the decor doesn’t need to put on a show. You’ll find no colourful cushions scattered around the floor, no incense and no satin drapes. Instead Qmin welcomes patrons with slick grey carpet, smart navy chairs and white-set tables. Indian-inspired elements include modern artwork by local artist Julie Croner and a copper peacock. Another distinct element – though one which according to chef/owner Anil Ashokan is not rare in traditional Indian restaurants – is a glass panel which affords diners with a view of a metal dome-shaped structure. This is where the restaurant’s signature roomali roti (flat bread) is made. The panel also doubles as a window into the spotless world of the Qmin kitchen.

If you are not interested in watching the chefs whip out meal after fragrant meal, you’ll certainly pay more attention once the dishes hit your table. Following authentic Indian cookery, Qmin presents flavours and textures that are missing from most Indian eateries in Sydney. However these are infused with a gratifying dose of modern pizazz. Duck mohl-ee (south Indian-style slow-cooked duck made in a coconut liquor, served on potato “podimas”) is just one example. And while the menu changes every two to three months, signature dishes such as tulsi tikka (basil marinated chicken) and lababdaar tikke (grilled chicken pieces in tomato-based sauce) loyally remain to please the restaurant’s devoted fans. Qmin has also pioneered its own degustation menu – the “Maharaja’s Table” – which pairs aromatic Indian dishes with matching beverages. Diners who can’t get enough can also attend a cooking class or purchase the Qmin cook book.

Agnes Gajewska