LOCATION On Holt Street, just up from MoVida and 121 BC.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA Moom mam? Mum Mam? How the hell do you say the name of this place? Let’s just call it “Little Glutton”, which is a very appropriate description for the restaurant and also the meaning of its unusual Thai name.
On a Wednesday night, Little Glutton is packed. Is it full of people who couldn’t be bothered waiting in the queue for MoVida? Having visited pre- and post-Camorra craziness, I can happily assure you, it has nothing to do with Frank. Rather, the queue may be accounted for by a vegetarian and gluten-free menu that actually looks appealing even to a carnivore. Or perhaps it’s the unusual selection of Thai flavoured gelato and desserts? Maybe the reasonable prices and the option for BYO? For me, it was none of the above – all it took was a shredded banana blossom salad, bursting with prawns, roasted cashews and coriander. Alright, I’ll admit, I’m not that easily won over. Turmeric grilled spatchock with a green papaya salad and the ‘crying tiger’ wagyu beef both made a stamp in my culinary consciousness. Add to that a couple of dishes from the specials board – including ocean trout larb and a prawn and chilli jam stir fry – and I was sold.
It’s not as cheap as your local takeaway, but the food is a definite notch above your mid week snatch and grab meal anyway. The atmosphere is lively and the décor suave. I fear Muum Maam has turned me into a little glutton.
Anna Lisle