PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAMrs Top used to call a postage stamp sized restaurant in Marrickville home, but a change in ownership and a move to Neutral Bay has given the old bird a new look and lease on life. The restaurant combines old world charm and a cosy elegance, with deep chocolate brown furnishings and a smattering of rather eclectic artwork which ranges from whimsical Australian landscape scenes to absurd cartoons. Mrs Top has been around for 30 years now, though she doesn’t look a day past 21 - must be something to do with all that rich, regional Gallic cuisine.
French cuisine became en vogue in Australia in the 1970s and the menu at Mrs Top takes its inspiration from these glory days. The menu is best perused with a complimentary sherry in one hand; the escargots in garlic, parsley, shallots and cognac butter may tempt you for an entree, as could a bowl of hearty French onion soup. Mains keep in the vein of traditional and regional dishes; the rabbit in grain mustard and white wine sauce is a shame for the rabbit, but delicious for the diner. Braised beef cheeks in red wine with mash is satisfying, but for a vintage French feast you must order the roasted duck in Grand Marnier and citrus sauce. The dessert tasting plate for two comes with divine little bites of French fancies from pavlova to frozen creme caramel and rich Belgian chocolate mousse. Mrs Top is a BYO affair and no corkage makes it that little bit sweeter.
February 2008