Monkey Magic

LOCATION
Close to the corner of Crown and Fitzroy Streets.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
“The funkiest monkey that ever popped” might have just been replaced. Bearing the same name as the eccentric Japanese television series, Monkey Magic (the Surry Hills restaurant), has brought its own funky twist with a groovy warehouse-style setting, a fusion Asian menu and a delicious tongue-in-cheek cocktail. Hiding somewhat demurely behind simple, modern glass doors, Monkey Magic is actually quite a big restaurant. On the entrance level it boasts an intimate, chocolate-coloured lounge area where you can sip a cocktail and munch on some of the smaller offerings (such as edamame with pink salt sprinkles). Once you’re ready to encounter some adventure, you should make your way upstairs to the main floor. Here you’ll find a space that manages to be modern yet rustic and spacious yet intimate due to its use of dark brown colours and soft lighting.

When you’ve found your dark wood table (and your menu) it is time to start the decision process. This may not be easy; chef Hideaki Matsumoto has done an admirable job of dubbing over Japanese tastes and ingredients with western twists. The result is a fantastic modern Asian fusion menu which boasts small dishes like traditional sushi nigri with a twist of individual complementing sauces. You’ll also find the texturally pleasing seared pepper-crusted tuna with eggplant and miso puree, served with marinated red pepper and white anchovy salad and the “Saikyo miso toothfish” which comes on a complex salad of tea-smoked oyster, pink grapefruit and harissa dressing. With so many appealing choices it’s advisable to share the meals with friends. An alternative way to get your palate around the dishes is with the set menu. And you can end your night with some banana, white chocolate and shiso spring rolls or one of the signature cocktails. The “Minami Azabu” is crisp, refreshing and definitely filled with magic.

Agnes Gajewska