Profiled by de Groots MediaThe twinkle of fairy lights on Blaxland Road is the only hint of the glitzy Bollywood glam-fest within. Some say Mantra is Sydney’s sauciest Indian, gaudily beautiful and awash with the colours of the Mumbai markets and the arresting bouquet of a Marathi auntie’s kitchen. Lanterns glitter above the tables with their silver and gold threaded tablecloths. Sequin-studded shrines to famous actresses line the walls and behind swathes of shimmering curtains lies the sumptuous cushion room, a favourite retreat for private parties. On a tame night Indian music plays in the background. However, the atmosphere turns riotous when there’s live entertainment and gyrating disco dancers in the house. Friday is Indian Princess Night (don’t worry, the staff provide the bindis) and Saturday is all about Bollywood Bling.
Even on weeknights, when things are appreciably more relaxed, Mantra is worthy of a leisurely evening spent sampling familiar favourites and rarer regional dishes from cities as far flung as Goa, Delhi, Cochin and Lahore. Entrees highlight the diversity of Mumbai’s street food, and feature dishes like kama sutra prawns in “aphrodisiacal spices” with tamarind chutney. There’s much to enjoy in platters of dips and pickles, the creamy Punjabi-style mango chicken, homemade paneer cubes in buttery tomato gravy, and the earthy, fragrant signature lamb e Mantra. Mop up the sauces with the excellent naan, washed down with an extra smooth Cobra beer.
Fiona Davies, March 2008