PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAWho would have thought that a little Italy could exist among the fruit’n’veg shops and thong-wearing beach-combers of Bronte’s Macpherson Street? However, step off the well-worn path and into La Locanda and you will be transported on a culinary Roman holiday. The restaurant is small but unpredictably stylish, embellished by the soft fabric-covered wall which merges black and white European paintings into a juxtaposition of classic versus chic. Sink back into the comfy pillowed seats and sip on your Chianti while the experienced waiter takes you through the menu. Thank heavens too, because the entire menu is in Italian and the rolling fluidity of the language does make it feel more authentic, if not a tad sexy.
Biting into the stuffed baby calamari with ricotta, breadcrumbs, pine nuts, garlic and herbs on a bed of tomato puree will make you cry out “Mamma Mia” in delight. Long ribbons of homemade pappardelle pasta are stirred through with duck ragout and fresh green peas to create a stunningly simple main meal. Coppa di Cioccolato – a dark chocolate mousse topped with amaretti biscuits will saunter with you to the finish line where an aperitif closes the act marvellously. But remember, the blackboarded menu is frequently dusted off and renewed with new Italian recipes, keeping the regulars coming back for more and making bookings essential.
Annabel Wise, April 2008