Enopizzeria

LOCATION
In the culinary heart of Neutral Bay – Grosvenor Street which is lined with plenty of parking spots.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Waiting for a friend could never be so pleasurable as at Enopizzeria. Relaxing on tall black leather stools by a long, marble benchtop with a glass of Cappellacci Angliancio Puglia wine sure beats checking your watch. Dining can be enjoyed at these long benchtops, or in traditional tête-à-tête seating in black banquettes. Despite my temporary position which allows gazes to be cast through the glass frontage or over the restaurant’s warm terracotta tiles, we are soon escorted to a table by cheerful Italian waiters.

Chis Connell’s décor lines the restaurant with black wine racks that softly illuminate the bottles spilling a gentle light over the heads of diners. On this spring evening diners are visiting to enjoy the casual, communal arrangement of long benches, gracefully resting elbows on the cool marble benches, and toasting the end of the week with a glass of wine. The extensive list prioritises Australian and Italian drops with a sprinkling of European variety. The crowd of couples who line the bar enjoy share plates of soft, billowing burrata cheese on lightly sautéed mushrooms; fragrant arancini balls stuffed with beef and peas; and swordfish with orange fennel and pistachio salad.

Mauro Marcucci, the owner of Melbourne favourites Bond Street and Pizza e Birra among others, works with executive chef Luigi Buono to execute an Italian menu that works within tradition, while playing with contemporary concepts. The signature ox cheek is slowly cooked and gently falls apart on its bed of creamy polenta and red wine sauce. Pizzas balance just above tables on stands as the remains of the ‘Continui’ menu are cluttered beneath, held by diners wanting to finish every last bite. The capricciosa pizza features earthy flavours of ham and mushrooms with stronger accents from artichokes, olives and basil, and topped with mozzarella. The desserts feature traditional favourites, yet the highlight is the airy and soft ricotta pancake sweetened with acacia honey which soaks up the juices of accompanying poached pears. The flexible and casual dining experience of Enopizzeria often starts off as a short glass of wine before a movie, and ends up a three course meal, a bottle of wine, and nightcap chosen in favour of prior plans.

Edwina Storie