PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIATake a touch of the vibrant tapas bars from the back streets of Barcelona, add lashings of European culinary know-how and hip digs in Sydney and you’ve got Emmilou. Housed in a funky Victorian terrace on Bourke Street, Emmilou has, quite simply, got it going on. From the sleek interior with its sultry red glow to the impressive bar decked out in a mosaic of Tigers Eye, this is one very good looking destination. But unlike many of its counterparts, Emmilou has equal parts substance to style; executive chef and owner, Chris Cranswick-Smith, spent four years honing his craft in Michelin-starred kitchens throughout Europe before returning home to stir the senses at Emmilou.
The time Cranswick-Smith spent in Europe has heavily influenced the menu at Emmilou, which offers a la carte and tapas dishes with a marked Spanish flavour. Cranswick-Smith’s own creative flair shines through in plenty of the dishes; the pan-seared South Australian squid with duck liver mousse and crisp jamon sounds like an alarming combination at first but he pulls the flavours together with lip-smacking ease. Cured wild boar with spiced beetroot and pickled shimeji mushrooms is another stellar example of the chef’s skill in combining unique tastes. Casually cutting edge cool, at this flexible venue you’ll find diners grazing on tapas and killer cocktails sitting alongside tables going the whole three-courses. And in great news for the party set, Emmilou’s kitchen remains open until 1am, so you can finally give the late night kebab the flick.
Amy Looker, February 2008
