PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAWarm staff, tall candle-lit tables and the dark interior give El Bulli an immediate feeling of authenticity. The small share plates are served fast and hot from the kitchen, are terrifically portioned and extra tasty. This not a theme restaurant - the long thin dining room with a courtyard out the back is reminiscent of the quaint places to be found in the old city of Barcelona. El Bulli is in the Strawberry end of Surry Hills but definitely worth the trip down the slope. At El Bulli, there are crowd of people eating even on a Tuesday night, which immediately lifts the spirits. A terrific selection of Spanish wines is also encouraging, as is the perfect recommendation from the flaxen haired waitress - a bone dry Rose Sangiovese blend from Spain.
The Pinchitos de Pollo (skewered chicken in chimichurri and lemon) makes a succulent start, while the Patata Fritas (deep fried chat potatoes with aioli dressing) are a simple and irresistible choice you'd be crazy to skip. The spicy rustic food is deceivingly hearty, and generous amounts of fresh garlic wafting through it make it feel warm and familiar. If sharing is not your style, you can eat traditional paella or zarzuela seafood casserole. There isn’t a great deal for vegetarians on the menu, just a tortilla or Spanish cheeses with bread, but the Setas Rellena (stuffed grilled mushrooms with manchego) will please even the fussiest vego. The swing doors to the kitchen open and close all night long and the sound of murmured Spanish rises and falls. It’s fast and furious at El Bulli but also a lot of fun. Go there after a long day and be transported into the light and happy atmosphere of Spain.
Belinda Aucott, August 2007