Profiled by de Groots MediaI walk into Churrasco pre dinner service. It’s dark and quiet, the only sound the sizzle and hiss of the barbecue. Its flames throw a fitful relief onto the wall of the long corridor I walk down. I watch my dancing shadow and the smell of sizzling meat creeps into my nostrils. It is as if I am prehistoric man, walking through a dim cave towards a great bonfire, where the tribe is roasting the spoils of our hunt. But in the space of ten minutes this primal scene will be whisked away along with the tubs of marinating meat that cover every surface. The chandeliers will come to brilliant life, Brazilian music will beat and pulse, and the barbecue will cease to symbolise my caveman fancies and instead be associated with clinking wine glasses and good company. Churrasco (pronounced shoo-has ko) is a Brazilian style of barbecue and the one at the restaurant has been imported especially. Marinated meat is skewered rotisserie-style and then slowly roasted over flaming coals in front of a street facing window, to lure out the carnivorous hunter from within the omnivorous civilian.
Once inside you will be seated and your drink order taken. No menus necessary. For the rest of the night waiters will parade between the tables loaded with sizzling skewers of beef, chicken, pork and lamb, to be sliced onto your plate at your request. Non-meat options are sparse, consisting of salad, veggies, rice and haloumi cheese. Make no mistake, this is an unadulterated, unapologetic, all-you-can-eat meatfest and if it doesn’t suit your delicate sensibilities then you’re in the wrong restaurant. This rodizio style of cuisine was pioneered by cowboys, and the rawness of the experience is half the fun. It’s $30 per person, and desserts, salads and drinks are not included.
Sarah Theeboom, July 2007
