LOCATIONBistro Ortolan is located on Marion Street in Leichhardt.
PROFILED BE DE GROOTS MEDIANot only is Leichhardt home to Sydney’s Little Italy, it can also lay claim to being the home turf of hatted French favourite, Bistro Ortolan. Although it’s named after a small migratory songbird who, once captured, has but a few days of force-feeding to look forward to before being drowned in cognac, roasted and gobbled up whole; Bistro Ortolan avoids including this (apparently) decadent classic dish on the menu. Instead, chef and owner, Paul McGrath allows his trusted suppliers to influence the menu of contemporary French cuisine which changes on a daily basis. Between the quality of the produce sourced by McGrath and his own creative flair, Bistro Ortolan has dashed ahead of not only its Italian neighbours, but Frenchies further afield in Sydney.
The elegantly restored terrace on Marion Street that houses Bistro Ortolan is intimate in its design, meaning it’s fancy enough to charm the pants off your dining partner over a romantic dinner for two, yet relaxed enough to wear the friendly local bistro tag with ease. McGrath enjoys introducing a touch of the unusual to the menu through unique produce; his South Downs lamb comes from a boutique breeder outside of Bathurst while the Melanda Park pork is bred organically from a reintroduced breed. The ten-course degustation menu is well-priced at $100 a head and is an ideal way to experience the fruits of McGrath’s labour. The crisp-skinned wild barramundi with buttered marron tail, spring vegetables and yabby bisque may make an appearance, as could the poached tenderloin of veal with caramelised sweetbreads. Food this smashing needs wine to match, and the wine list at Bistro Ortolan does not disappoint with its inspired blend of old and new world drops.
January 2008