PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAThere are a handful of Malay restaurants in Sydney worthy of high praise. Temasek, a plainly furnished, two room eatery with Singaporean owners, is one of the best known. Tucked in an alleyway next door to the Roxy Hotel, it’s incredibly busy, and always full of noise. The atmosphere resembles a bustling Singapore food court right down to the almost non-existent service (don’t feel bad about being a little pushy if you need attending to) and the seriously fabulous, authentic Malay/Singaporean food.
Their signature dish, Singapore chilli crab, needs two days in advance to order, and is the most expensive item on the menu, but if you look at all the tables around you – everyone’s having it. It really is one sensational dish. The Hainanese chicken is a perfect rendition of a simple yet delicate dish, the soft, supple consistency of the steamed meat and skin a textural delight. The sambal is seriously pungent and fierce, even if it’s a little over-sweetened. Tamer dishes like serai (lemongrass) pork are a pleasure, and the spicy prawn laksa Singapura, swimming with giant prawns, is one of Sydney’s best. It’s worth checking out the specials for some interesting regional fare, such as Penang laksa, a very different, tamarind tinged variation on the famous noodle soup.
Fiona Davies