PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAOffering no-nonsense service and an anonymous atmosphere, it’s not hard to understand why the nation’s capital has embraced the international Wagamama chain. Public servants, shopaholics and students fill long communal tables that are similar to those dotting Chinatown’s food halls, but dim lighting and dark woods soften the frantic pace and underplay the restaurant’s status as a multinational chain. The waitstaff are polite and quietly well-informed about the dishes on offer, and are quick to suggest the house specialities. Mains are grouped into ramen, teppan, rice dishes, salads and the ever-popular teriyaki. With a wide range of sides such as chilli squid and duck gyoza, the versatile menu can accommodate everything from a quick after-work nibble to an engaging meal.
Housed within a major shopping centre, the location is more convenient than compelling, and the cynic within suspects that this may have been a deliberate choice. The outdoor dining area puts customers on show for a constant parade of shoppers and cars. However, the restaurant harbours no pretensions and the reasonable prices are enough to keep patrons coming back for more. The menu offers a refreshing change from the usual Japanese fare of sushi and sashimi, and the imported Ashahi beer is a great accompaniment to any dish. Casual, crisp and cool (if not calm), this Japanese establishment offers hawker-style cuisine in a modern restaurant setting.
Russell Buzby, January 2008