Pistachio

LOCATION
About 5 minutes from the Woden shops.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Situated on the site of the old and much-loved Pinnochio’s, Pistachio – the first solo venture of acclaimed local chef, David Keeley – had a lot to live up to. However, it is safe to say that the restaurant has lived up to expectations and delivers much-needed accessible cuisine to Canberra diners. Having trained under Jean Luc Obers at Chez Moustache, and then produced consistently high performance dishes in James Musillon’s team at Aubergine, Courgette, and then Sabayon, David Keeley has topped his already illustrious career off by starting his own restaurant in the heart of the Woden Valley.

However, I think the secret to Pistachio lies deeper than David Keeley’s expressive cuisine, his robust menu or his ethos of maintaining the highest of standards and using local produce. These are all core ingredient of the Pistachio experience, but honestly its “x-factor” is its accessibility. It is both rare and refreshing to see that on Tuesday nights this restaurant features an “all you can eat” buffet costing $20 for adults and $15 for kids. It’s not just the value that surprises and impresses, but Keeley’s open attitude to diners with children. They do exist, and they do like to eat out. Highlights include the seared scallops with gnocchi and pumpkin in a classic burnt butter and sage sauce – although the tasting platter of entrees is good for sharing. Follow up with the rich seasonal flavours of the veal loin with Puy lentils, glazed pearl onions and Dutch carrots, or the deliciously creamy pea and ricotta tortellini, served with sweet corn veloute, baby corn and drizzled in basil oil. Finish off with the traditional and flamboyant “bombe Alaska” – perfect for those chilly evenings!

Russell Buzby