Profiled by de Groots MediaA relative newcomer to the Canberra restaurant scene, Onred has certainly started to make a name for itself – turning heads with its stunning views and menu to match. It is certainly worth the long and winding drive which ascends Canberra’s landmark Red Hill. Whether it’s a business lunch on a clear sunny day or a romantic dinner with the lights of the capital sprawling below, the view is simply impressive. This is possibly one of the finest sights in Canberra, yet it does not distract from the food which is similarly impressive.
The menu is tight and well-executed, with only a handful of entrees, mains and desserts to choose from. The food succeeds at being modern Australian without succumbing to any of the pitfalls that go with such a moniker. Instead, delightful dishes with thoughtful flavours abound. Start with oysters, served with a basic but complementary mirin, soy and chive vinaigrette, or the beautifully balanced flavours of Onred’s signature calf liver, char-grilled and nestled on a bed of mash, beans, macerated sultanas and onion cream. As the shadows lengthen below your feet and the lights of Canberra switch on under your gaze, the difficult choice of mains presents itself. Will it be the locally raised sirloin with onion confit, bone marrow dumplings and hot mustard coleslaw? Or perhaps the Atlantic salmon with parsley coulis, cauliflower beignets and Persian fetta? Finally, as night falls and the city is lost in the dark, finish off with a thick slice of carrot cake, served with a light orange, walnut and mint salad.
Russell Buzby, May 2008