LOCATIONLocated in Civic
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAKoko Black is a celebration of the cult of chocolate. Not for the faint-hearted, the menu is devastatingly and puritanically dedicated to the little brown nuggets that have captured the hearts and tastebuds of the world. The resident chocolatiers labour in a climate-controlled kitchen producing dozens upon dozens of finely-crafted truffles, pralines and petit fours for the luxury gift packs and take-home delights that give the cafe a steady stream of custom. To step into the clutches of Koko Black is to be surrounded and seduced by all things chocolate – sitting inside, customers are driven to distraction by the frantic mass of all things black and brown and garnished with pistachio dust, aided and abetted by the smooth and subtle decor (in various shades of chocolate, of course).
The menu is short, intense and unapologetically of the same theme. Be prepared for the best hot chocolate in Canberra, freshly brewed with full cream milk and dark Belgian chocolate (for the diet-conscious, light milk can be substituted). In summer, the iced chocolate is a favourite, but the ice-cream martinis in a variety of flavours are a work of art unto themselves. Try the Belgian Spoil (a chocolate platter) at your own peril, it’s an experience that needs to be savoured rather than gobbled. I found the lack of diversity a little disappointing – there is no fondue to be found and a couple of fresh strawberries would have really cut through the intensity of the dishes and cleansed the palate. As a temple to chocolate, Koko Black is of the most puritanical sort, valuing quality above all else. If you frequent vending machines for your chocolate fix then stay away. Afterwards, ordinary chocolate is never quite the same.
Russell Buzby