PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAFormerly a traditional Italian restaurant, Kitschen’s transformation into a “modern Australian” establishment is charmingly incomplete. With sleek interiors and long, sweeping windows, there are still elements of a warm family atmosphere hidden in among the decor. Chefs Brendan and Louise Guy’s experience encompasses leading Canberra restaurants such as Brassie, JusQytly, Anise and the hatted Aubergine. This culinary expertise lends much to Kitschen’s promise. The impressive outdoor dining area is perfect for long warm summer evenings and bright busy breakfasts, while inside the tastefully chosen local artwork (changed monthly) caps off the hip and casual atmosphere.
With a wide selection of pasta and risotto along with other Italian favourites such as bruschetta dotting the menu, Kitschen’s influences run to Mediterranean more than anything else. The entrees seem designed to share, such as the house “prawns on toast” – 10 orange and basil prawns on Italian bread – and the intense deep-fried Camembert served with cranberry sauce. The veal saltimbocca (wrapped in prosciutto with sage and butter sauce) is heavenly, though other dishes such as penne milano and spaghetti napolitana are somewhat unadventurous. Despite the fact that Kitschen seems to be undergoing an identity crisis, the fabulous atmosphere and the sheer quality of the cuisine make it well worth a visit.
Russell Buzby, January 2008
