PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAHidden from all but the most tenacious of food warriors, Fekerte’s has much to offer adventurous diners searching for something different. Tucked away but just off the main strip in Dickson, Fekerte’s is definitely a diamond in the rough. Inside, its rather spartan interior belies the excitement and chaos of the kitchen where Fekerte Tesfaye brings a little taste of Africa to Canberra. A couple of Ethiopian prints line the walls, and some lonely looking woven baskets sit on the countertop – but the food more than makes up for the interior design, or lack thereof.
Ethiopian food is commonly compared to Indian food – curries, samosas and flat-breads – but the spices used are much subtler and milder, allowing the flavours of the dishes to be truly savoured. Overall, the food is warm and comforting, with very generous serves that are best shared around the table. A selection of entrees is the perfect introduction to Ethiopia; cauliflower fritters are fantastically crunchy and tasty, and come with a green bean and chilli dipping sauce for a bit of heat. The choice for mains is generous, but the best way to taste as much as possible is to order the chef’s selection platter. A wide range of curries (both vegetable and beef) are beautifully presented on enjera – sour Ethiopian flat-bread make from chickpea flour, similar to south Indian dosai. The platters also come with a lime and tomato salad, and home made cottage cheese – perfect for cleansing the palate after some key wat (tender beef curry simmered with onion in a chilli and pepper berbere sauce). Finish off with a cup of strong Ethiopian coffee or fragrant tea, and your Ethiopian adventure is complete.
Russell Buzby, April 2008