PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAWalk down Bunda Street at any hour and you’ll bear witness to the Cream phenomenon. Set against the unlikely backdrop of a shopping mall, this cafe/bar/restaurant is a chic addition to Canberra’s culinary repertoire. Unlike the more established cafe’s in Civic, Cream offers clean lines and buckets of space rather than relying on shabby charm and loyal custom, and is a serious competitor in the market. As a cafe, I fell in love with the details – the coffee is served with a little chocolate coffee bean on the spoon, and the hot chocolate is made from Belgian chocolate and hot milk. Breakfast is a civilised and mostly traditional affair; a little pricey but with generous servings and good presentation. For a casual brunch, the absolutely mouth-watering mushroom omelette with chorizo is a real winner.
The lunch menu poaches favourites from every culture, offering everything from Pad Thai to duck risotto and the unusual Creole-inspired Jambalaya – a rice dish with seafood and chorizo. Although the lunch mains are available over dinner, the introduction of a tapas-style entree menu keeps the momentum going well into the night. Bright young things are attracted to the cavernous, light interior and extensive bar, while the seating is flexible enough to allow for solo diners, large families and romantic trysts. The service is prompt and polite, although I found the bustle at times a little overwhelming and the unfortunate aspect (on a main road) distracts from the atmosphere somewhat. However, for all its glitz and glamour, Cream really delivers and is setting a new standard of dining in Civic.
Russell Buzby, January 2008