PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAThe heart of Canberra, it’s known to be said, can be quite devoid of life at night. Even on Friday and Saturday nights, the hub of activity in the capital centres on ersatz Irish pubs and flashy bars filled with flashier people. It’s almost as if no one cares about food unless it’s part of a cocktail garnish. Until you realise that the Novotel, in the quiet part of town, has a quiet little restaurant inside. The rich warm interior of Blue Dish makes it a good place to be after sunset in autumn, glass of port in hand, perching at the bar. Soft jazz plays over the sound system while hotel waiters, trained to be discreet, glide smoothly across the room.
The wine list is extensive, if tame, and the menu, while not very inspired, does have some hidden surprises. The entrees are not one of them. Too expensive to pass as tapas, the servings are just a bit too meagre for my appetite. The salt and pepper calamari (with lime compote aioli dressing and dusted – yes dusted – with Szechwan pepper) could have been much simpler and tastier if it was just salt and pepper calamari. However, the pumpkin gnocchi in a tomato and basil sauce and served with crispy chorizo was stunning. The mains tend to be either hit or miss as well. Steamed vegetables for $25? Miss. The mixed grill with Angus beef eye fillet, lamb loin, pork chops and sausage? Hit. The Blue Dish is trying to appeal to the locals, and not just the jet-setting crowd. They’re doing a good job of it but the price and some poor offerings on the menu let the Blue Dish down.
Russell Buzby, April 2008
