PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAThe recently renovated Alto restaurant overlooks Canberra from the Telstra Tower, with a revolving floor that does a full circuit in just under 90 minutes. Under new ownership, the restaurant has sought to shake its tourist-trap image and attempted to give the space back to Canberrans in the form of a contemporary fine-diner. The decor is modern - all crisp, clean lines, white linen and natural light. The kitchen is now under the stewardship of Canberran Kurt Neumann, who pens a seasonal contemporary Australian menu with a French flourish. After a five-star stint in Canada, Neumann has returned to his hometown and is loving the challenge of this new restaurant.
For entree, try the Thirlmere Park duck liver, sauteed and served on an onion puree with streaky bacon, and baby leaf and hazelnut salad. Follow with the Angus or Wagyu rib eye, roasted to taste with potato pave, slow cooked red onions and bearnaise sauce. The dessert menu has a seasonal tasting plate, currently featuring sweet Bethonga gold pineapple served three ways: with bitter chocolate souffle, with cashew nut pudding, and as a Pina Colada sorbet. Coffee is by Toby’s Estate, and the wine list offers plenty of by-the-glass options. Alto is open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday, and for lunch Wednesday to Sunday.
Sarah Theeboom, December 2006
