PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAStylish, relaxed, educated. That’s the mantra that drives Sobo, from the signature cocktail (the white peach Bellini) to the name (a contraction of South Bondi, just as Manhattan’s Soho is South of Houston Street). I would add contemporary, elegant and international to its profile. The design sets the mood with a vogue beach house feel and a pronounced regard for the location, dead opposite Bondi Beach. Large windows and mirrors solve the problem of limited outdoor seating capacity, making cunningly sure that you can see the water no matter where in the restaurant you sit. On the plate, chef Tauheed Khan’s contemporary Australian menu shows commitment to produce, bought locally where possible. The weekend brunch menu is full of crossover dishes that give you lots of options, such as all-day breakfast, grazing plates and light meals. The breakfast tasting plate for two is an interesting one, with two types of eggs Benedict (ham and salmon), corn fritters, bacon, blueberry pancakes, muesli, fresh fruit and juice for $38.
At dinner, the concise menu offers six items in each section. Seafood dominates the summer entrees. The open ravioli is an innovative dish, mixing Italian, French and Australian influences with snapper, Moreton Bay bug and king prawns in a saffron bouillabaisse sauce. Asian flavours get a nod in the roasted duck breast main with a salad of confit leg, green mango, papaya and Thai herbs. While European tastes characterise the lamb (roast rack and braised shoulder) with creamed potato, spinach, ratatouille and sweetbread. The wine list has some points of interest (like a Geelong Saignee) but generally proffers bottles from known varietal regions such as Marlborough Sauv Blancs and Hunter or Barossa Shiraz. It may be on the previous Hugo’s site, but it’s clear that Sobo has stepped out of its predecessor’s shadow.
Sarah Theeboom, January 2008
